Sizzling lava

Big Island visitors: be sure to put Volcanoes National Park on your itinerary.

"Activity Summary for past 24 hours: Kilauea continued to erupt from two vents-one in Halema`uma`u and the other on the east rift zone. Sulfur dioxide emission rates from these two vents remain elevated. At the summit, spattering and short spatter-fed lava flows were visible from an opening at the bottom of a deep pit inset within the floor of Halema`uma`u Crater, resulting in glow above the vent overnight. On the east rift zone, lava erupting from that vent continued to flow through tubes to the coast where it entered the ocean just west of Kalapana."

The day before you leave go to these sites for the most recent update:

http://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/lava2.htm
http://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/halemaumau_newgasvent.htm

You'll find driving and hiking directions to all the viewing sites in your Hawaii Big Island Trailblazer.

To view an awesome video of the deepest erupting undersea volcano yet discovered (near Samoa) go to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration website. University of Hawaii geochemist Ken Rubin believes this active Boninite eruption provides a unique opportunity to study magma formation at volcanoes and how the Earth recycles material where one tectonic plate is subducted under another – a long-term goal of many Earth scientists.

Red Lava, Black Sand

The ocean's ultra-Maytag effect churns away at fresh lava, which turns a glistening black when it cools, into sand particles in a matter of years on the Puna coast of the Big Island of Hawaii. Pictured here is Kehena Black Sand Beach, a.k.a. 19-Mile Beach since it resides at that mile marker on the highway. A short, hands-on trail leads down from guardrail parking, made more of a scramble one day in 1955 when volcano goddess Pele sneezed and the earth fell five feet in a jiffy flat at the shoreline—you can see the demarkation clearly where a stairway was severed.

BTW: People like no go naked here, even though nudity is not allowed on any Hawaiian beaches, which are all public places.

Island Fever Ferry to Lanai

If you are on Maui long enough to get island fever (or just feel like taking a vacation within a vacation), hop on the Lanai Expeditions Ferry in Lahaina or Ma'alea and take the hour-long ride across the channel to Lanai. The cruise also doubles as a whale-watching adventure in the winter and spring, with sunrise and sunset thrown in as a bonus.

Once the private pineapple patch for magnate Sanford Dole, Lanai is now a sleepy getaway featuring two luxury hotels, snorkeling, mountain biking, and golfing. A shuttle bus (about 10 bucks) runs between the Four Seasons Manele Bay (where you can snorkel with dolphins at Hulopoe Bay), to the quaint (yes, quaint) town square with offbeat shops and restaurants in Lanai City, and winds up further up the hill at the Lodge at Koele, an unlikey Tudor manor with ocean view, arboretum and horseback riding.

You can also rent a Jeep to tour the far-flung beaches (Shipwreck, Polihua) and red-dirt geology (Garden of the Gods), but this will double your expenses and first-time visitors will have plenty to do using the shuttle busses. You'll feel like you've been gone for a week. The Lanai Ferry is you best bang for the buck when looking for a paid adventure when visiting Maui.

Slopes of Kalopa

The cabins and camping at Kalopa Native Forest State Park are your best bet for rustic lodging on the Big Island–and arguably the best in Hawaii—especially if you don't mind chilling out at 2,000 feet. The well-kept grounds and clean cabins, on the northern end of the Hamakua (east) Coast are a reasonable base camp to visit Waipio Valley, Hilo, and even a day trip to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

But Kalopa is also a worthy destination itself, whether you're up for a picnic and wander-in-wonder around the manicured grounds and Polynesian arboretum trails, or would rather strap on the dayhikers and head out for miles-long jaunts into a trail system through the 500-plus acres of forest reserve that rises toward Manua Kea (another 11,000 feet higher). Non-native giant trees blend with natives, perfect habitat for a host of native birds (like 'io, the Hawaiian Hawk, and aku'u, a heron), as well as a few shrieking exotics pheasants and cardinals. Check out page 174 of Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer.

Spooky Iki Crater

Steam escapes through lava tabletops on the trail across Iki Crater, an appendage to the larger Kilauea Crater in the center of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. Though Iki blew its cork fairly recently, in 1959, an eruption here is far less likely than at its cousin crater, Halemaumau Crater a few miles away in Kilauea, which is the home to volcano goddess Pele. Halemaumau started spewing a voluminous column of volcanic gas in 2009 in a burst that blew the tourist overlook to smithereens, thankfully when no one was present.

The Iki Trail is across from the Thurston Lava Tube, a tourist trot on the lush green north side of the caldera. The loop hike of 4 miles drops about 400 feet from the bird-rich, tree-fern-and-ohia forest before crossing the lava basin.

Can only be Waikiki

Hawaii has thousands of versions of paradise, secret spots to call your own and live the tropical dream. But only one location creates instant recognition, like the Eiffel Tower, Golden Gate Bridge, or Space Needle: This shot can only be one place on earth, smack dab in the middle of the Pacific, and it's Diamond Head from Waikiki Beach. Many visitors will poo-poo Waikiki as being too touristy, and they have a point. On the other hand, you can never truly know Hawaii without spending some time here, standing on your own bare feet and taking in this iconic view.

Although the area is largely a post-WWII tourist invention (a swamp was drained and a canal dug to form the beach) it does have it historical roots, both for the ancient Polynesians and as the homesites for Hawaii's last King, David Kalakaua, and its first Congressional representative, Prince Jonah Kuhio.

But even taken for what it is, a kind of Vegas minus the slots, plus the ocean, Waikiki delivers. It is like what you would expect it to be, only more. It is Hawaii, the calabash of Islanders, military, and post-sugar immigrants mixing with planeloads of sun-scorched visitors having a good time amid high rises and hula skirts. From here, from this cliche' personified, then you can branch out to different parts of Honolulu and Oahu that you have know idea existed.

Start with a the short drive and weird hike to Diamond Head itself, to the rim of this dormant crater via a series of tunnels, steps, and ladders. Then take off to try some of the many trails and beaches that rim the island. See Oahu Trailblazer, both for the touristy stuff (you gotta see the Polynesian Cultural Center and the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor) as well as the adventurous backroads.

‘Long’ Shot Wins The Eddie

Big-wave surfer Greg Long got the best of 40-foot waves and champion surfers Kelly Slater, Sunny Garcia, and Bruce Irons, to win the prestigious Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Akiau contest held yesterday at Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. Long had also won the big-wave contest at Maverick’s in Northern California the last time it was held in 2007, making him the unprecedented reigning champ for both events.

Long collected $55,000 for braving the monster waves (no tow-surfing is allowed at The Eddie,) while Slater collected $10,000 for finishing second, Garcia got $5,000 for third, and Kauai’s Bruce Irons netted $3,000 in beer money for fourth-place.  There were 24 entrants, and anyone who has seen the size of these waves knows all of these guys are winners, and among the best athletes in the world.

Mahalo to surf photographer Sean Davey for e-mailing us this awesome shot of Kelly Slater directly from the event.

Some 25,000 spirited fans, the largest-ever for the event crammed the Kamehameha Highway and the bay’s beach to hoot and holler under sunny skies and favorable wind conditions. Thousands more listened on the Quiksilver.com website, which offered a clear picture, replays, interviews and solid play-by-play from former world champion Martin Potter and top Hawaiian surfer Fred Pattachia.

For a good part of the day, it appeared that Slater, the nine-time world tour champion, had won this event. It would have been his second Aikau victory and the latest mind-blowing feat by the surfer universally recognized as the best in the world. But Long stole it with a fabulous second heat, and that's the beauty of the Aikau format: Eight one-hour heats, allowing each of the 24 entrants to surf twice, with no one eliminated.

Yesterday marked only the eighth time in 25 years the Aikau contest was held (since the right-sized waves need to form). Slater, who has an unprecedented nine world titles, won the Aikau event in 2002. Bruce Irons was the defending champion after winning in 2004. Sunny Garcia, is a former world champion. Many of the competitors are now on jets heading to Maverick’s, to face the storm surf that is mounting.

Eddie Contest Update

Thousands flocking to North Shore Oahu to witness today's events that begin at 7:30 a.m.

Go to Quiksilver.com/Eddie  for swell updates and live webcast. Surf 30-40 feet 6-8 times overhead. Expected to build as high as 50 feet throughout the day. Wow!

The EDDIE looks to be ON at Waimea

Monster waves are slated to arrive this week on the North Shore of Oahu for the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational (The Eddie) competition . The 2009/10 Quiksilver event will be marking its 25th anniversary. Invitees include the Irons brothers, Keaulana brothers, Jamie O'Brien, Jamie Sterling, Peter Mel, Reef McIntosh, Kelly Slater and Makuakai Rothman.

A few reports ramping up the excitement:

"SUNDAY: Large NW groundswell is easing, strongest in the morning hours. Expect solid 18-20' surf for good breaks with select outer reefs producing larger sets around 25-30'+ on the face. *Lots of water moving around with very heavy/dangerous surf across the North Shore. Expert surfers should exercise extreme caution."

"A HUGE HURRICANE level storm(60+ kts+45' seas) spawns near dateline 1200 to the NW on Saturday Dec 5 and stays intense through Sunday as it tracks east. This is going to be the BIG ONE (havent seen such potential in near 10 years)... almost double the  Warning criteria of 25' faces(so potentially 30-50'); Hawaii surfers like George Downing who make the call for The Eddie will likely call it 20-30' on some top sets at Waimea. Some of its fetch is less that 400 miles out. This one is Eddie Aikau 'size'. Now the limiting factor for a 'GO' is no longer winds assoc with another front but rather sheer size. The claim is: this will be some of the biggest surf in years (even some over 30' sets are possible) and has the most potential ....for Monday, tuesday or Wednesday...esp since the last Eddie Aikau (2004, Bruce Irons)."

"The National Weather Service in Honolulu advised the Department of Emergency Management that extremely hazardous high surf could pose a threat to Oahu’s north and west facing shores beginning early Saturday and continuing through next week Wednesday.  North Shore Surf heights could build from 20 to 30-feet peaking at more than 40 to 45-feet by Monday. West facing shores will experience slightly lesser heights but the surf may still be capable of causing damage and injury."

"Additionally, a 2 ½ foot high tide early Saturday morning could combine to increase the coastal flooding potential, cause damage to homes located on or near affected beaches, create road closures and other problems and hazards."

The event is named for Eddie Aiku who drowned when paddling some 19 miles to Lanai for help during a rescue attempt. He was a crew member on the maiden voyage of the Hokulea, a replica of ancient Polynesian sailing vessels that became disabled in heavy seas. "Eddie Would Go" has become the slogan among surfers worldwide, in honor of the courageous waterman (lifeguard).

Humpback in trouble

The Maui News is reporting a juvenile humpback whale in trouble off the West Maui coast. Officials from the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Marine Sanctuary are assessing its injuries from being entangled in hundreds of feet of heavy rope. The whale has moved into rough water in the channel between Maui and Molokai and will be further monitored today.

The Falls that Fell

The hike to Kapioloa Falls along the Kohala Ditch Trail on the north tip of the Big Island crumbled into the valley after the big earthquake of 2006. Hikers made the short trek after gaining permission to enter private property of the Surety Kohala Corporation, or by taking a trip with Hawaii Forest & Trail, the island's premier adventure outfitter. With quakes, volcanoes, and tsunamis in the mix, you literally cannot  count on the ground you stand on to be there next year on the Big Island.

Waikiki After Dark

One of the best freebies in Oahu is the Waikiki Beach Hula Show at Kuhio Beach Park at the intersection of Ulunlu and Kalakaua Avenues. Winter hours are Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday from 6 to 7 p.m.

Entertainment commences with the traditional sounding of the conch and the high energy performers let loose with hula and Hawaiian song for about an hour.  It will leave you smiling and touch your nostalgic souls.

For more night time events check out the Hawaii Visitor Bureau's Oahu schedule for December.

Our Oahu Heiau winners

Congratulations to our three winners:  D. Texeira, A. Schmidt and B. Crabb.

Our November 20 photo was taken in Makaha Valley on the west side of Oahu.  The Kaneaki Heaiu is a centuries-old homage to Lono, the god of peace and fertility.  It was converted to a war temple in the late 1700s when Kamehameha and his men sojourned there prior to launching an unsuccessful invastion of Kauai.

Your approach to the heiau should be respectful and no entry is allowed onto the main platforms.  To reach the heiau drive to Mauna Olu Estates in Makaha and drive past the gatehouse.  Located on private property, it is open to visitors Tuesday through Sunday from 10 to 2.  No admission is charged.  For activities and points of interest on the West Side, consult your Oahu Trailblazer .

Mystery question

Can you name this this ancient Hawaiian site?  Be one of the first three to identify this not-so-famous place and win a new Oahu Trailblazer (hint) guide.  Our e-mail is trailblazerhawaii@gmail.com.  Aloha and good luck!  We'll be announcing the winners in our next posting.

The Shaka

Howzit brah?, hang loose, au-rite, cool, take care, goodbye, hello, 'til next time are some of the meanings of this totally Hawaiian gesture.  Don't be offended if someone bro's down the shaka, you're being extended a little aloha (friendship) from da locals.
Malama i kekahi i kekahi:  take care of one, take care of all.

Getting the "Y" right takes some practice.  Since it's a very "in" thing to do, get it right before you land so you put it into action behind the wheel where you'll notice it used all the time. It's another form of thank you. Most Hawaiian drivers are extremely polite, never tailgate, timidly merge and hardly ever honk.

The orgins are many. Most credit a foreman of the Dole Pineapple Cannery who lost his three middle fingers on the job.  After losing his job he became a security guard on the Sunset Beach, Oahu sugar train where the all-clear signal was communicated by a wave. Mr. Kalili's thumb/pinkie method is now universal - check out our Pres flashing the sign.

Father Damien's roost

Molokai's north coast. The 3 mile trail from topside to Kalaupapa hugs the nearly perpendicular cliffs and descends 1,600 feet to the peninsula.  Twenty-six switchbacks corkscrew in and out of canyons and ravines.

The leper colony is now a National Historic site and still home to a few former patients who have chosen to remain there.  Access is strictly regulated.  Tours can be arranged through Damien Tours of Kalaupapa for $40.

Time Travel from Maui

To see what it was like on Maui in 1950, take a 90-minute ferry ride (or a 10-minute flight in a helicopter) to Molokai today. The entire north side of the island is roadless, where 3,000-foot high cliffs take on the Pacific. Drive east and the road skirts a coast of ancient fishponds and a surfing beach before ending at lush Halawa Valley (pictured here) home to several towering waterfalls and jungled hiking trails.

Going west on Molokai leads to more arid red-earth slopes and Papohaku Beach Park, with its 3-mile run of white sand. The north tip of the island (west of the sea cliffs) is Kalaupapa Peninsula where the leper colony was overseen by Father Damien in the late 1800s (tours take you down a switchbacking trail, yet another throwback in time).

Full scale tourism has never taken hold on Molokai, largely due to the efforts of locals who have shunned it. Island Marine runs ferries out of Lahaina, and Blue Hawaiian, as well as other companies, lift whirlybirds out of Kahului. See page 188 of Maui Trailblazer for an itinerary of a long day on the island.

Molokai Reef

An aerial view of where the manta rays and octopus roam. Helicopter tours of Molokai take off from Maui, fly over some of the highest coastal cliffs in the world and provide staggering views of waterfalls, fishponds and snorkeling waters. Fly with Blue Hawaiian and only go on a clear day.

Snorkeling Anahola

The pointed peak in the Anahola Mountains that rises above this bay is named Kong, as in King (since it looks like the ill-fated ape in profile), but that movie was not filmed on Kauai, but instead the peak's downslopes were featured in Jurassic Park. (The local joke is that everyplace in Hawaii has been in either those dinosaur films or TV's Hawaii Five-O.)

A two-mile strip of band of yellow sand rims the bay, broken in the middle by the usually slack waters of Anahola stream. Coral reefs make for better-than-decent snorkeling, but shallow water and rip current (during higher surf) are drawbacks. From this side of the Bay, at Anahola Beach Park, a dirt track skirts a wild coast through Hawaiian Homelands, making for a non-tourist getaway hike.

Goatspotting

Among the rules to ensure safety when hiking Kaua'i's NaPali Coast is this: Never follow a goat trail.

These smug critters like to chill at the terminus of the Awa'awapuhi Trail, the most popular among the down-and-up, out-and-back trails on the ridges that lead seaward from the upper edges of Waimea Canyon. Provided you manage your time and avoid foul weather, the treks are safe for the careful hiker, unless you  sprain the shutter-finger snapping pictures.