Follow your feet, not topo maps in Hawaii

At many popular hiking areas, hikers are advised to stay on trails so as to minimize impact on the environment. In Hawaii, most often, the impact is reversed and the smart money is on the flora and land to deliver a blow to any hikers foolhardy enough to take off cross county.

Hawaiian mauka (mountain) routes almost always follow a ridge, or head up a narrow stream valley, rather than following contours on traverses and switchbacks as they do in most mountain regions. Razorback ridges narrow down to a foot or so in places, with 1,000 foot drops to either side. The thick flora that buffets the routes disguises the hazard: you run the risk of stepping into a little turnout that turns out to be a tangles of greenery.

Hawaiians have been walking the islands for many centuries. If you don't see a trail, there isn't one. Follow the trail, and if you lose it, turn back.

Kealakekua's 'Back door' to Ki'ilae Village

Kealakekua Bay, south of Kona on the Big Island, serves up a buffet of tourist attractions: The Cook Monument snorkeling haven, Kealakekua State Park heiau (temple), and the sprawling grounds of Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park, beside which is Two Step, one of the best snorkeling spots in the world.

It's no wonder that many visitors miss Pu'uhonua Beach Park at the south end of the historic park. Here palm-shaded picnic tables are placed along a lava reef that has several excellent kid's swimming ponds, and the Ki'ilae Village Coastal Trail begins a historic route that can walk the legs off the most energetic of hikers. Much of the good stuff is within a mile of the trail head.

You immediately pass the rock foundations and other ruins that remain from one on Hawaii's last-inhabited ancient villages and then hop up to the Keane'e Cliffs on a boulder ramp that was a main feature on this "highway" in the mid-1800s. (People jump from the cliffs, a practice frowned upon by the Park Service.)

The official trail (park boundary) ends after a mile or so, but the historic route continues for several miles to Ho'okena, a much-more-direct route than taking the modern paved highways.  For trail directions consult your Hawaii Big Island Trailblazer and if you don't have one they're available for purchase on Amazon.com and BarnesandNoble.com.

NORTH SHORE'S HALEIWA: surfing capitol of the world

Every island has a north shore, but the “North Shore” as a place name can only be on Oahu, and there you will find Haleiwa, which is the undisputed world surfing capitol—although it is not clear who bestows such a title.

Four surfing beaches on the  professional world surfing tour are along the coast extending several miles east of Haleiwa: Haleiwa Ali’i, a lesser-known venue, is offshore the town; a couple miles down Kamehameha Highway is Waimea Bay (home to the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational); next up is Pipeline (or Banzai Pipeline, or just plain Pipe),  right next to Ehukai Beach Park; and completing the run is Sunset Beach, home to huge wedges close to an easy-access big beach that inspired L.A. producer Dave Velzy to make those early 1960s surfer-Joe movies that in turn inspired the Beach Boys and a whole generation.

Haleiwa Town is an assemblage of wood-frame buildings, some quaint and some unremarkable, strung out along about a mile of a rural two-lane blacktop. You have to pick a few stopping points and poke around to find the eccentricities of the surfing culture that give the town its undeniable allure. With a railway that extended back to Honolulu (which since has been wiped out by the sea), Haleiwa began as a sugar-growing town, with tourism on the fringes. Agriculture receded, but an endless supply of waves remained, becoming the town’s new economic product.

When the swells are low, you can drive by these famous beaches without knowing it. But when the waves crank north of 18 feet (up to 50 feet!) then place is jumping, and, if you can find a place to park, ringside seats to see the best in the world are available for free.

DAYDREAM FACTORY: Big Island's Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon on the South Kohala Coast of the Big Island of Hawaii—a palm-fringed sapphire streak that is visible from a scenic turnout along a lava-desert highway—is the kind of place that has people staring wistfully through the partitions of office cubicles once they have returned to the Mainland.

To get to this idyllic vision, most visitors take a monkey-see-monkey-do trailhead, close to the turnout, which swerves through a sun-scorched forest of stickery kiawe trees. Others take a state park road a half-mile away, which leads to the coast and provides a shorter trail along the coast.

Officially named Wainanali’i, the five-acre inlet was created in 1810 by workers of King Kamehameha the Great, then a deep-sea fishpond with walls up to 8-feet high and 20-feet wide, and a shoreline of about 2 miles. What the king created Mauna Loa mostly destroyed during a massive eruption in 1859.

But enough of the lagoon remained to make it the island's best resort for lounging green sea turtles.  Normally a dozen or more of the large reptiles bake along the rocky shoreline.  Their salty shells crust white in the sun, but turn instantly amber when they scuttle into the turquoise waters. (Federal law, along with common courtesy, requires humans to stay well away from the turtles.) 


In spite of its allure, the milky, colder waters of blue lagoon, which result from silt and freshwater intrusion, are not the best for swimming.  Even adjacent Kiholo Black Sand Beach is better.  See pages 64 to 66 of Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer for more details.

Win Maui's Most Complete Adventure Guide

Send us a brief e-mail saying why you want to go to Maui and what you hope to get out of the trip.  We'll send out a free copy of Maui Trailblazer: where to hike, snorkel, surf, drive to the FIVE people who submit the most compelling and creative responses.

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trailblazerhawaii@gmail.com

Vacation Goes Down the Tube on Hawaii's Big Island

Arrive early to avoid the tour buses at the Thurston Lava Tube, a.k.a. Nahuku, an attraction that delivers the scenic goods on the rim of Kilauea Caldera in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The wide path begins down a bird-rich, ohia-and-tree-fern forest, a lushly set songfest you would not expect to experience so close to the barren lava of an active volcano.

The tube, lit by lights, has a dripping ceiling about 15 feet high, like a subway tunnel sans train. Lava tubes are formed when the surface of fast moving lava cools and hardens. The hot lava continues to flow underneath until the source ceases, and the tube drains. This underground passage is nearly a quarter mile long—with an option to continue another 1,000 feet if you have your own flashlight and don't get creeped out.

Full directions on how to get there and several crater hikes in the vicinity can be found in the Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer guidebook.

Enchanted evenings on sale: cheap flights to Oahu

Log onto CheapFlights.com, grab a deal and fly to Oahu. Once you're there be sure to catch the after dark haps on Waikiki.

The Waikiki Aquarium's annual summer concert series, Ke Kani O Ke Kai (sound of the ocean) is within walking distance of the hotel strip. Doors open at 5:30 p.m. and combine music with nighttime tours of the aquarium.


The next performance is July 15 featuring Willie K. followed by Amy Hanaialii on July 29 and closing with Hookena on August 12. Bring a beach towel, beach mat, or mini folding chair and enjoy the music.


















Tickets are available online. Food booths run by local restaurants are on the premises should you want a Hawaiian style dinner.


Every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday (weather permitting) be sure to catch the free Waikiki Hula Show at the Kuhio Beach Hula Mound from 6 to 7 p.m. It opens with traditional blowing of the conch shell, seating is on the grass and arriving early is advised.  By the time the tiki lamps are lit and the sun has melted into an amber Waikiki sunset you'll be swaying along with the palms with other aloha infused visitors who are ready to buzz the bars, restaurants and clubs to fill out the night. Mahalo to the City & County of Honolulu, the Hawaii Tourism Authority and Waikiki Improvement Association for their sponsorship of this weekly event.

Sailing off into the Waikiki Sunset

The price is right for this universal dream of escape to paradise: around fifty bucks. Catamarans take off right from the beach at toddy time, 5 o'clock.

The hour-and-a-half cruises usually include all the beverages you can drink, although land lubbers want to be careful with that proposition, since being bombed and seasick at the same time is not fun. But waters are normally flat near shore Waikiki, so not to worry. The resort strip at night seen from the water is an awesome sight.

Napali: The Cliffs

Forget about driving around Kauai. Even the Army Corps of Engineers in the heat of battle during WWII got smacked by The Cliffs—Napali, the northwest quadrant of the island where a series of two- to three-thousand-foot steep ridges radiate seaward from the middle of the island. Beaches and deep valleys are accessible only by boat (and were therefore home to large villages during times of Polynesian settlement).

Most visitors seeking this wilderness drive north to road's end and embark on the notorious Kalalau Trail, a 12-mile up-and-down goat scramble that hugs the cliffs before ending at a beach and valley.



You can look down on Kalalau Valley by driving the other way around the island to road's end above the upper rim of Waimea Canyon.

A dozen or so Napali trails begin along the canyon road, including popular routes like the Awa'awapuhi, Nualolo, and Pihea trails, and lesser-known treks that go out Polihale Ridge, Miloli'i Ridge, and others. All these walks involve about ten miles round-trip and dropping down some 2,000 feet to where the escarpments end, often in places where you need to be mindful of footing. Kauai Trailblazer has details on pages 153 to 170.

Soaking up the Puna Coast

Pocketed into the Puna Coast of the Big Island is the Ahahanui Hot Pond at Puala'a County Park -- geothermally heated water 90-95 degrees, spring and ocean fed, perfect for dipping, nature's natural spa. If you're staying in Hilo, this is a great family day trip. Lifeguard on duty and picnic grounds complete the package.

How to find it? Consult the pages of your Hawaii Big Island Trailblazer.

Getting High on Hanalei's 'Moonshine' Trail

During Prohibition the Hawaiian booze called okolehao was distilled from ti plants along this trail that climbs to about 1,300 feet to a peak with a panoramic view of the Hanalei Valley and bay. Today the route is the Okolehao Trail into the Halelea Forest Reserve, one of the few places where humans can set foot in the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, which is a short scenic drive from the town on the north shore of Kauai.

The well-marked trail begins as a road behind a historic Japanese cemetery, but then turns to a chutes-and-ladders ridge trail, less than 5 miles roundtrip, through an arboretum of Norfolk pines, ti, strawberry guava, and a thick mat of other tropical flora. From the top (you have to make sure to double-back and even drop a little to reach the actual summit) is also a point-blank look at the twin-spiked peak of Hihimanu, which means 'manta ray' in Hawaiian, but will remind some of Batman. The hike is not dangerous, though hands are required in spots near the top, and a hiking pole will help a lot on the slick-surfaces, especially on the descent. See Kauai Trailblazer pages 39 and 40 for more details.

BATTLE OF THE PADDLE Competition News

Results are in for last weekend's Waikiki stand-up paddle event. Six hundred paddlers from around the world showed up competing for the $25,000 prize money.

Check out the video collection and results at the Quiksilver site.

Anahola, Local Style

The pointed peak in the Anahola Mountains is known as Kong, adding a fitting mythic quality to the jungled ridge. Woo-woo theorists, inspired by the primordial flora, speculate that one of the lush valleys is the Garden of Eden. Little Anahola is not your typical tourist town.

A high-percentage of Hawaiians live here, with bloodlines that can be traced into the beginnings of the nation and Anahola was one of the first places to be designated as Hawaiian Homelands
in the latter 1800s.

Tourists can find a superlative beach stroll around Anahola Bay. Though currents can be deadly when the surf's up, a shallow coral reef makes for good snorkeling. Count on palm trees for shade.

Old Kona Town

Where's the beach?

Arriving at the airport, especially on days when the vog (volcanic smog) is creeping down the barren lava fields and traffic is jammed, Kona newcomers may be disappointed with the absence of a glitzy run of sand that is normally associated with a resort area of such high repute. Don't despair. Remember that the big guy himself, King Kamehameha the Great, could have lived any where in the Hawaiian Islands and he chose to spend his final decade on the shores of Kailua-Kona.

You'll find Old-Hawaii charm remains—alongside a run of restaurants, tourist shops, and mid-level resorts along Ali'i Drive. Along the seawall on the bay is Hulihe'e Palace, now a museum, built in 1838 as a home for the Big Island's second governor, John Adams Kuakini. Across the street from the palace is Mokuaikane Church, a stone edifice with towering steeple that was built a year earlier. The church, is an upgrade of the thatched-roof model built in 1820 by Reverend Asa Thurston, who was among the first missionaries to arrive in Hawaii. On the other side of the small bay (at a great swimming beach) is Aheuna Heiau, a recreation of Kamehameha's post-conquest place of worship, dedicated to Lono, the god of peace and fertility.

Just down the palmy drive from these landmarks is Kona Inn Shopping Village, a boardwalk full of cubby-hole shops centered around the Kona Inn Restaurant, which dates from earliest days of tourism, in 1928. And a few steps from the village is Hale Halawai Park, with more shops of Waterhouse Row. This is where the sport of bodyboarding was invented and a front-row seat to watch today's surfers ride waves into Oneo Bay. (See Hawaii the Big Island Trailbazer, pages 88-90 for more details.)

Like much of the Big Island, Kona may not deliver the tropical stereotype, but it offers much more after you've taken the time to let the magic work.

On the Sleeping Giant's Face

Inland from the Coconut Coast of Kauai near Kapa'a rises the familiar profile of "the Sleeping Giant," a stand-alone ridge that is the Nounou Mountain Forest Reserve. Three rural neighborhood
trailheads lead to the "forehead" (most-westerly part) of the Giant, ranging in round-trip distances from three- to seven miles and gaining from 800 feet to a grand in elevation. It's on the tourist radar, but mostly used by locals like for an exercise romp.

There's one narrow and hands-on trail section just before the top (pictured), but it's not dangerous. At a tiny saddle near the top (the Giant's "nose"), you can scramble across to the chinny-chin-chin, where a treacherous freefall awaits. Fee-fi-foe-forget it!

For the descent, you have a choice of a mauka view toward Waialeale or the big seaward vista of Wailua (also pictured). Pages 81-82 of the Kauai Trailblazer has the pros and cons of the three trailheads, plus driving descriptions.

A Hawaiian Sampler

Customize your own picture slideshow

Best Place to Snorkel on Oahu?

The Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, on the other side of Diamond Head from Waikiki, looks dreamy from the road above and draws more fish fans than any other venue in Hawaii. But, like the smash-bang Hollywood blockbuster that sets box office records, the bay is an example of how "most popular" doesn't translate into "the best."

Part of the problem is that Hanauma suffers from its own good looks: The pay parking lot fills up early and crowds can be a hassle, both in and out of the water. In order to protect the preserve, some areas have been restricted, an informational safety video is mandated viewing for all visitors, and fees for entry, lockers and the shuttle buses seem nitpicky. And, oh yes, the drab coral looks lifeless and sometimes fish are not copious.

But even considering the downsides, Hanauma is still worth the visit if you know how to play it right to avoid the inconveniences—see pages 89-90 of Oahu Trailblazer. OT also give details on the half-dozen or more snorkeling spots that will be more enjoyable for the independent tourist.

Here Lies Lucky (?) Lindy

At age 25 in 1927, Charles A. Lindbergh flew a one-seater plane from New York to Paris, collected a $25,000 reward for being the first to make the flight, and became for a time the most famous man in the world. "Lucky Lindy" had stepped out from the shadow of his congressman father and into a parade of limos covered with confetti.

He probably wishes time could have stopped there. Events of the remainder of his peripatetic life included the kidnap and murder of his son, an affair, accusations of being a racist and Nazi sympathizer, and dying in Hawaii of lymphoma at age 72. His unassuming grave is on the south coast of Maui at little Ho'omanu Church, on a lush, remote bluff overlooking the Pacific toward the Big Island. (See Maui Trailblazer, page 140, for details.)

On his gravestone is inscribed, "If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the utttermost parts of the sea." Mission accomplished, Charles. (From this site, Lindbergh, or anyone else with eagle eyes in 1937, could've witnessed the takeoff of Amelia Earhart's flight from Oahu that vanished in the Pacific, ending her attempt to circle the globe.)

Kula, as in Cool

About midway between sea level and the 10,000-foot summit of Haleakala is Kula, a miles-long run of pastures, flower beds (including proteas), and old-timey businesses strung along sections of a two-lane highway and rural roads. Bring a jacket, since it is chilly at 4,000 feet, but also bring open expectations to find some really kool stuff. The airborne view is across Maui toward the West Maui Mountains, as well as the three other outer islands.

Kula Lodge, draws a lunch crowd, and next door, the Kula Marketplace will fill the bill for gourmet picnic foods and a surprising array of gift ideas and artwork. Down the road is Kula Gardens, Maui's oldest botanical garden and a family-pleaser. Jog off road a tad to see the movie-like setting of Kula Sanatorium (now a medical center) then keep curling around the mountain to Sun Yat Sen Park, a tribute to Kula's Chinese heritage.

Around the bend from the park is Tedeschi Vineyards, the most popular stop in the Kula area. It's been around since 1974, taking over the historic James Makee estate, which was a favorite retreat for King David Kalakaua (Hawaii's last king) and hosted writer Robert Louis Stevenson. Taste sparkling wines made from pineapple and tour the arboretum. The winery is right next to Ulupalakua Ranch, and real live paniolos (cowboys) may be around the country store.

Make sure to veer off the highway and take sections of Kula Road. You'll find quirky places like Cafe' 808, Morihara Store, and the Church of the Holy Ghost, an octagonal edifice built in 1894. For more details, see Maui Trailblazer, pages 143-151 and pages 162-163.

UNLOST on Oahu

Who would guess that the Likelike Pali trail leads out the back of a parking lot at a golf course on windward Oahu? With a pair of flip flops you can get to Likelike Falls and look up to where five hundred Oahu warriors were driven over the Nu'uanu Pali (cliffs) by the invading forces of Kamehameha the Great in 1795. A century later, when the first road was dug in, workers found 300 skulls. You're more likely to see wild ginger and mangoes.

This is one of those "lost" places that are right at the edge of suburban Oahu. Lost, but not really. LOST, the TV program, was not filmed here. You can check out one of the favorite beach locales for that show on the North Shore by looking at page 178-79 in Oahu Trailblazer.