Friday, November 21, 2014

Getting High in Hanalei

The Okolaheo Trail rises about 1,400 feet over two-plus miles from the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. The trailhead is near the Hanalei River,  about two miles from the town. 

Leave the GPS in the car—only one route is humanly possible—but bring along some hiking poles, since the rooty-and-muddy ascent presents many opportunities to get the seat of your shorts dirty.

Along the way to the summit are a few level spots with views of Hanalei Bay. The summit itself is surrounded by ti plants, but you do get 360-degree views of the river valley and ocean. Okolaheo is called 'The Moonshine Trail' since a rustic liquor was made from the ti plants in the old days. 

Complete directions in your handy Kauai Trailblazer guidebook.

Sunday, November 16, 2014

The Seven (or Eight) Stages of Aloha

From the pages of the "No Worries Hawaii" guidebook:

People really do say “aloha” in everyday speech in Hawaii. Aloha means good-bye, hello, compassion, love—all  that. The word derives from the Hawaiian words “alo,” meaning front or face, and “ha” meaning the essence or the breath of life. As in ancient times, some Hawaiians today will touch foreheads saying, “alo,” and then breathe out saying “ha,” thus exchanging life’s breath. Don’t worry, this isn’t something expected of you at the car rental counter. But you may well feel the aloha by the end of your stay in Hawaii, so don’t be afraid to say it. Aloha is Hawaii’s gift to the world.

Months and perhaps years of expectation have just endured the daylong whirlwind-and-doldrums of airports, baggage claims, and lines. Your underwear is ill-fitting and you are dehydrated. You have arrived. Small quirks in your room’s appointments loom as major setbacks. Have a cocktail immediately and put your bare feet in the warm Pacific. 

The day rises and you’re in Hawaii. Equip your day pack and get the car organized. Next come trips to the stores to stock up on all the stuff and beach gear. This is a preparation day, as your mind catches up to your body. Find a quiet place for afternoon and sunset. Repeat the end of Stage One.
Stage Three:  EXPERIENCE
Now come the Oh Wows. A half-day on the trail or sightseeing, and a half-day at the beach. Your head fills with new images of the islands. You’re looking forward now, and see no end. Stages One and Two are jettisoned.

Stage Four:  IMMERSION
Repeat Stage Three. Different sides of the island, the gardens, waterfalls, reefs and beaches, the museums, restaurants, and historical sites. You keep taking them in. It’s a bit overwhelming. Was that just yesterday?
Stage Five:  REACTION
After days of immersion, you begin to shed your skin. Your body has cycled through, literally taking in the molecules of Hawaii with each breath and swallow and footstep. You have nicks, bites, and sunburn. This bodily reaction naturally follows immersion.

Somewhere, it happens. You’re not thinking about it. At this moment you feel all the forces of nature working dynamically, harmoniously, infinitely. It’s always this way, but you have just noticed. You hear the rustle above and look up to see light on the banana leaves. You always knew it would be like this, but you could not have anticipated the feeling. Stage Six, in some cases, will be accompanied by Going Native, i.e., tying a sarong around your head and having a gin fizz with breakfast because why not? Or taking a dip in the moonlight for the same reason. 
You get it. You have come to know these remarkable people, the Hawaiians, and how they lived for centuries with respect for the aina, the land, and with a sense of sharing for all eternity. You know this is a Pollyannaish historical view, but it seems now like a beacon for the future, for your future. This realization of aloha, in some cases, will be followed by the corollary, Let’s Buy Real Estate. 

As any Hollywood screenwriter will tell you, the trick to creating high drama is to build a “ticking clock” into the plot. In many cases this is a literal clock, a time bomb, but more often it’s the upcoming date of the big game, the waning days before the disease is fatal, the deadline set by a mobster, the day that the parents get home, and so on. On the movie of your vacation, the ticking clock that creates high drama is the hour of your departure. The feeling of aloha—let’s get away and live here forever, what’s life for anyway? —is heightened by the fact that you have to leave.

Before you sell the ranch and move, consider renting for a while. The eighth stage of aloha, with no time limit to create dramatic tension, is wide-ranging and can include island fever, personal fulfillment, dread of mosquitoes, mildew and termites,  and longing for the mainland. Hawaii has seen ‘em all. 

Monday, November 10, 2014

Living the wild life at Kekaha Kai State Park on the Big Island

If flying into Kona, check out the aquamarine sandy coves studded by palms that are not far north of the airport. That's Kekaha Kai (formerly 'Kona') State Park, some 1,600 acres of oasis enclosed by vast lava fields—and it should be at the top of your list of wild tropical beaches to visit.

The 1.5 mile drive into the park is over a hellishly rutted rocky road, lots of slow-speed swerving required, but it's not half as bad as it used to be. The beach park nearest the parking has picnic tables and rest rooms, but sees the fewest visitors among the three beaches nearby. A quarter-mile trail from the parking area leads to Mahaiula Bay, a palm-fringed cresent with good snorkeling and decent surfing off the north point of the bay.

Mahaiula's shore has rock cobbles in places, making entry tough on the tootsies, but beachgoers can find sand drifts here and there. 

From Mahaiula, a string-straight path with stepping stones leads to the state park's showpiece, Makalawena Beach. A long sand dune backs a half-mile run of sand, with a picture-perfect kids' cove at the far end. Halfway along Makalawena is Makalawai Oasis, a brackish pond tucked just over the dune. If you're into contemplating the cosmos, this is the spot.

Kekaha Kai is an all-day affair. Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer has the deets on pages 72 to 75, as well as all the low-down on other hard-to-find surprises on the South Kohala Coast.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Keanae Arboretum: A family tree-hug on Maui's Hana Highway.

Halfway to Hana and right on the sleepy highway, the Keanae Arboretum is the perfect spot for everyone to pile out of the car and commune with trees from all over the planet. A wide, easy-going path will suit anyone from toddlers to grandma.

A few flowers, like red ginger and heliconia mixed in with the leafy giants. A stream flows alongside the exotic forest, which was planted in 1971.

A native Hawaiian and Polynesian garden begins where the wide path ends, with papayas, bananas, and taro planted in the traditional way. After this garden, adventure trekkers can strap on the mud shoes and head into the forests—though make sure you keep the way out in the back of your mind as you venture in.

Keanae Village is just around the bend from the arboretum, as is the village of Wailua, which features two tiny historical churches and taro fields encircled by towering cliffs.

Visitors to Maui may want to do the Hana Highway in two days, seeing the sights as far as Keanae on one day, and then pushing to Hana and beyond on another. Maui Trailblazer has a detailed description of the route on pages 119 to 137. Check it out before you go, since much of the stuff is hard to spot.

View Ke'anae Arboretum in a larger map

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Koke’e Museum: The beating heart of Kauai's high country

Koke'e (ko-kay-ay) Museum is quietly one of the top attractions in Hawaii. It's also the take-off point for dozens of woodland hikes, forays into Waimea Canyon (the 'Grand Canyon of the Pacific'), and airborne treks onto the lesser known ridges of Kauai's notorious Napali Coast.

Inside are natural history displays, cultural artifacts, and several exhibits—including an eye-popping 
presentation of the devastation wrought by Hurricane Iniki's 227 mph winds in 1992. Admission and advice are free, but a donation will be appreciated. Next door, you can grab a lunch or beverage at the rustic Koke'e Lodge.

The museum offers inexpensive maps of the area, as well as a variety of more detailed publications (astute observers may notice Kauai Trailblazer). As you drive up to Koke'e State Park from west Kaua'i, Waimea Canyon drops off immediately to the right of the highway, while a dozen of the Napali ridges (including well-known Awa'awapuhi) fan out on the left like spokes on a wheel. Past the park, at the end of the road, is the breathtaking Pihea Overlook Trail that encircles the top of Kalalau Valley and—extreme value added—connects with the boardwalk into Alakai Swamp.

The museum is set in a large,  meadow at a cool few thousand feet above sea level. A large network of trails extend from the museum grounds into woodland forests that are a dream for birdwatchers and mountain bikers. 

In October, Koke'e hosts the Queen Emma Polynesian Festival, a hula performance. Queen Emma—after the death of her husband King Kamehameha IV and her son, Albert—would take her retinue into the woodlands and Alakai Swamp. The Queen was accompanied by hula dancers who performed rituals out of respect for life-giving plantlife. The annual October festival is unforgettable—worth planning a trip to Kauai to see.

The many dozens of hikes and bikes in the area are described in Kauai Trailblazer guidebook.

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Some breathing room at Waikiki

You won't find a little grass shack on Waikiki Beach these days, but wide-open spaces, and even solitude, are a short walk away.

Queen's Surf and Sans Souci beaches are just to the south of the high rises and fashion shops.

Directly inland from these beaches is the sprawling greenspace of Kapiolani Park, 200 acres in the shadow of Diamond Head that in 1877 were bequeathed to the public by King Kalakaua in honor of his wife, Queen Kapiolani. Soccer games, frisbee, and community events are ongoing. The park is home to the Waikiki Aquarium, art-deco War Memorial Natatoium (swimming pool built in 1927), and Waikiki Zoo. Walk another twenty minutes from here to discover serenity at two little known beach parks, Makalei and Kaluahole. Lack of on-street parking keeps the crowds away.

If you really want to escape the hubbub, several sailing cruise companies invite you aboard for a short cruise. Touristy, yes, but the cruises are indeed a quick getaway that offer a view of Oahu from the ocean. For the full effect, try a sunset sail.

The Oahu Trailblazer guide includes walking tours and maps of Waikiki and Honolulu to help you get around.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Maui Trailblazer 2015: Go here. Do this.

Baldwin Beach on the windward side—the cover shot for this 5th edition—is one place among many to to find your own aloha on Maui

"For hiking, snorkeling, surfing, biking locations, this is the guide to take along." - Outside

"In both layout design and content, the very model of what a user-friendly outdoor guide should be." --Midwest Book Review

"Many of Maui's attractions are easy to find. But other places are off the beaten track.I recommend a guidebook called Maui Trailblazer, which has detailed descriptions of trails and remote natural sites." --New York Times

Trailblazer divides Maui into 55 geographically related 'trailheads,' giving specific descriptions of all the hikes, beaches, attractions, town strolls, and cultural sites that are nearby. Included in the fun are the outer islands of Molokini, Molokai, and Lanai. Have your yellow marker handy and give Trailblazer the once-over before you leave. And then have it with you and hone in while exploring Maui.

Maui Trailblazer 2015 is available on and or if you wish to buy a signed copy (20% discount, free shipping) write to

Monday, October 27, 2014

Kilauea lava flow advancing in Puna

A current map and recent photo.  Red Cross is on the scene.

From the USGS: "The flow advanced about 190 meters (210 yards) during the preceding 19.5 hours, traveling completely through the cemetery above Pāhoa. At the time of mapping, the flow was 715 meters (780 yards) directly upslope from Pāhoa Village Road. The flow was advancing downslope between two intersecting steepest-descent paths and was trending toward the southern one. The flow will likely return to the original steepest-descent path about 300 m (330 yd) upslope from Pāhoa Village Road, if it continues."

For the latest Civil Defense message, go to

Saturday, October 25, 2014

Danger awaits on the nicest of days in Hawaii

The truth is, someone dies every few weeks while having fun in Hawaii. The demons are not  powerful volcanoes, tsumanis, earthquakes, and hurricanes, but rather  'booby traps' that lie along the beaches and trails on perfectly nice days.  The good news: Almost all  recreational deaths in Hawaii can be avoided.  

Rule one is to stay on the trails. You can be walking along in lush greenery like this and step off the trail to take a picture, and ...

... get an airborne view like this as you freefall. Greenery disguises drop offs. The lush forest also can become a maze without exit. Forget about using GPIS to find routes. Stay on the trail and don't venture into the forests. Getting lost is fairly certain, and unseen earth cracks and lava tubes provide trap doors to deep dark places. (On the other hand, don't fret about poisonous insects or snakes since there are none in Hawaii.)

This scene hardly looks life threatening and this local surfer is reading the waves with experience. But rogue waves easily sweep people from rocks, so observe the wave action for many minutes  before venturing out. Don't walk out on wet rocks. On a given day, if normal surf is breaking near where you are standing, then a 'rogue' wave—one larger than the normal sets—will be in postition to take you out. Bigger surf also means stronger rip current. All that water pounding in has to go out someplace. In a small bay like this, don't swim out until you know where the rip current is. 

This spillway feels good on the feet on a day like this. During rains (and it can be raining in the mountains when it's dry nearer the coast) streams rise quickly to flash floods that take away hikers and even cars. Stay out of stream valleys during rains and head for high ground immediately if you hear what sounds like a jet engine coming down the gorge. Don't cross fast moving water; if you get caught on the wrong side, wait until the water lowers before crossing.

And, most of all, don't forget that the most popular way to die having fun in Hawaii is drowning, often from head and neck injuries caused by wave action or fatiguing in a rip current. Again, stay out of big waves and back from the shore. If you get caught in a rip current, don't swim against it. Rip currents are near-shore events that will release you behind the waves. Swim in a direction perpendicular to the force of the current. Avoid swimming at remote beaches, where no one will see you from shore. 

The Trailblazer guides for each of the islands list the specific dangers associated with particular hikes and beaches, and also have sections on recreational safety and hidden dangers. No Worries Hawaii, a vacation planning guide, has a chapter on how to play it safe on vacation. You don't have to wuss out and there's nothing to be afraid of. Adventure awaits. But many people do die in Hawaii on vacation and you don't want to be one of them.

One last tip: Retractable hiking poles fit easily into luggage and can be a lifesaver in Hawaii. Use them to probe greenery, for stability on stream crossings, for rock hopping on wild coastal routes, and, most importantly, to provide braking when coming down steep, narrow ridge trails that can be as slick as snot after rains.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Keeping it real at Ko Olina. Or not.

The Lanikuhonua Hawaiian Cultural Park is a serene little cove that for centuries was a retreat for Hawaiian royalty.  In 1939, Alice Kamokila Campbell (daughter of super-rich James Campbell), turned the beachside oasis on Oahu's West Side into a community-spirited park and organization.

From the beach, you can walk tidepools along the gardens and modest buildings that comprise the cultural park.

Just around this palmy point the mood shifts dramatically. High end resorts, including a new effort by Disney called the Aulanai, sit alongside four, perfectly symmetrical coves with sandy beaches that were blasted out of a barren limestone reef. Phony, for sure, but still a good place to get in the water. The Grand Ko Olina Resort hosts NFL players for the annual Pro Bowl. Check out Oahu Trailblazer, pages 198-200, for the best places to park, walk, and snorkel. Most visitors who aren't staying here don't know the place exists.

Monday, September 29, 2014

Make sure your Hawaiian 'honeymoon' is not a blind date: No Worries Hawaii

Even if you're not going to Hawaii to celebrate a wedding, a vacation is a lot like a honeymoon: It costs a chunk of change, takes a lot planning, and some tropical romance is expected.  You want to make sure that reality measures up to your expectations, and you don't wind up with a blind date gone astray. 

The type of vacation you can have in Hawaii varies wildly—from a Las Vegas-type soiree to a wildnerness backpack trip, with many options in between. What do you fantasize when you think of Hawaii? Whatever that is, No Worries Hawaii (a planning guide), will let you take those dreams and turn them into details

At the heart of No Worries Hawaii is a a simple-but-thorough self test. Some 36 aspects of Hawaii are listed, such as family beaches, nightlife, museums, hiking trails, snorkeling coves, tropical gardens, ancient sites, surfing spots—all of the things Hawaii has to offer. You go through the list, checking off what is important to you, what is sort of appealing, and leaving out what you don't really care about. Your answers are summarized, and the test reveals which island you are likely to like the most. For each category, all of the specific attractions are listed for each island, for reference when you actually visit.

Once your island is selected, No Worries Hawaii describes the options among places to stay (like mid-level resorts and condos, country cottages, luxury resorts, beach condos, etc.) and then presents hand-picked accommodations to choose from. The book is also packed with money saving tips, freebies, and how to plan your days so you don't get stuck in crowds. Ways to save on hotels, flights and rental cars are also included. Readers will also want to take a close look at the detailed tips for having a safe vacation in the water, along the shore, driving, and on hiking trails. Having fun can be dangerous, unless precautions are taken.

The authors have visited for several decades, in the course of writing and updating guidebooks for each of the islands. No Worries Hawaii is a must-have, both for first-time visitors unsure of where to go, and for returnees who want to try something different.

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Mauna Lani, The Big Island's Luxury Oasis

Visiting the Mauna Lani Resort in the South Kohala is one of Hawaii's major freebies. From the highway you look across a vast, sun-scorched slag heap of jagged lava: hardly a vision of paradise.  But drive in to find a mile-long seacoast with white-sand coves, a 30-acre history park, tranquil freshwater ponds, and a path that connects with the fabulous Fairmont Orchid Resort. The historic Queen's Pond, pictured above, is tucked away behind Beach Club Beach, and next to a series of larger ponds.

Waipuhi Iki Pond (above) is one of several at the backshore of the beaches, used in ancient times to raise mullet and other fish. A footbridge spans the water to a little-island hut that is one of the most serene places on earth. Near the footbridge is the small Eva Parker Woods Cottage Museum, where, when the moon is full, a free 'Talk Story,' performance is presented by Danny Kaniela Akaka, Jr. (son of Hawaii senator).  Song, dance, and Island-style story-telling blend into a memorable experience. Each show is a little different.

Along the coast are three or four safe and spectacular coves for swimming and snorkeling. Adventure hikers can continue north of the resorts to the Puako Petroglyph Park and the reefs in Paniau, or south along a golf course to 49 Black Sand Beach. Check it out in Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer, pages 56 to 59.

Saturday, September 6, 2014

Nature rules at Maui's Ironwoods Beach

In recent decades, contstruction cranes have outnumbered coco palms along Maui's Kapalua Coast (just north of Ka'anapali on the west side), but not at Ironwoods (Oneloa) Beach. A boardwalk-trail parallels the sand dunes at the backshore, running from Kapalua Resort on the south, passing the Hawea Point Shoreline Conservation Area, and connecting with the Dragon's Teeth seascape at the Ritz Carlton on the north end.

A near-constant shore break makes Ironwoods better for surfing than snorkeling. Beachcombers can enjoy the view of Molokai sitting nine miles away on the horizon. Maui Trailblazer (pages 68 to 74) has more details on places to call your own amid what can be a crowded coastline.

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Mauna Kea: A Short Walk to the Top of the World on the Big Island

trail to the summit of Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea is 'only' 13,796, but from its base on the ocean floor, the big volcano meaures about 43,000 feet, easily the tallest mountain in the world. From the trailhead at the top, the summit can be achieved with a mere half-mile, round-trip walk, but this is a tough half-mile when you drive up from sea level. Altitude sickness is an issue, especially for those who don't spend an hour or so at the Onizuka Visitors Center about 8 miles down the mountain at 9,300 feet.

A shrine marks the top. Hawaiians called the summit, Ka Piko o Kaulan o Ka Aina (The Famous Summit of the Land) and also Wakea's Mountain, the mountain begat by god of all the heavens.  Just down from the summit are deposits of volcanic glass, similar to obsidian, which was gathered to make cutting tools and spear heads.

About a dozen deep-space telescope are built across the saddle from Mauna Kea. A demand for more observatories has created a conflict with preserving this ancient Hawaiian site. So far, the summit itself remains undeveloped.

A four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended, and sometimes required, for the stretch of road past the visitors center. Tour shuttle buses also bring visitors. It is an unforgettable journey. Hawaii the Big Island Trailblazer has more details for planning a trip, on page 181.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Wahine Wave Riders at Kauai's Kalihiwai Bay

Drive down from the bluffs on Kauai's north shore near Kilaeua and you will find a local-style beach park that is home to one of the best you-never-heard-of-it surfing venues in Hawaii. One break is on shore near the river mouth, mostly the playground for body boarders. The real action is at the mouth of the bay--a right break that sometimes curls around to a near head-on with the cliff face if surfers don't bail out it time. 

Local dudes like the great Titus Kinimaka have their own hang out zone at the beach (you want to make friends and get advice before venturing out there to ride). But Kalihiwai is favored by the wahines, and some of the best in the world, like Bethany Hamilton (not pictured) surf here frequently.
Bethany is known these days as the girl who lost her arm to a shark attack in 2003, a horrific event later portrayed in the movie, Soul Surfer. It is astounding how she can catch the combers with only one arm—she remains a top competitive surfer on the pro circuit.

From a guardrail on the way down to the beach park is a fabulous place to be a spectator, one of the best spots in Hawaii when conditions are right. There are two or three places to park on the shoulder before the guardrail begins. This picture is looking in at the bay, with the stream to the far right. The  surfing action, where the above shot was lensed, is down to the right. Make sure you get a good footing (dangerous drop off behind rail) and stay out of the path of cars traveling downhill.